Flat Iron brought its first ‘Carcass Club’ to Leeds this October hosted by head of beef Fred Smith and diners were treated to Dexter beef for one night only.
THE Carcass Club is a series of one-off events giving guests the opportunity to try rare breed or lesser-known beef.
The origins of the Dexter breed can be traced back to the 1750’s in Ireland, where ‘Mr Dexter’ of County Tipperary is attributed with the creation of this curious breed. Because they are ‘slow growing’ and small, they are not practical for commercial farms. But, when carefully reared they produce fine textured, deeply flavoured, exceptional quality beef.
Two carcasses were sourced; one from Mount Grace Farm (Taste Tradition), where it was cared for by the keeper of Flat Iron’s own herd, Charles Ashbridge. You can meet the cows here. The other is from Pam and Tom Cockerill, Crosscliff Farm. Both farms are in Yorkshire and have produced some of the best Dexter beef the Flat Iron team have ever tasted.
Flat Iron head of beef Fred Smith said: “So far, we’ve served some remarkable beef at the Carcass Club – White Park, Native Angus, Belted Galway, Wagyu from our own herd – and Dexter absolutely deserves to join this list. Not only that, but it’s also wonderful to be able to showcase beef from two Yorkshire farms.”
“Dexters never disappoint, and I am delighted to share this beef with our friends in Leeds.”
The Carcass Club was £20 per person for Dexter steak, a large portion of beef dripping chips, truffled peppercorn and cep cream sauce and a glass of smooth Malbec wine, as well as Flat Iron’s signature popcorn and Tahitian vanilla ice cream.
What we thought…
Trudging the streets of Leeds on a typical midweek rainy evening, we were greeted with a warm smile as we entered the ambience of Flat Iron, Leeds.
Even more amusing was to be seated next to Pam and Tom Cockerill of Crosscliff Farm, a man who owns two abattoirs, and Caroline, the lady I will always see as the fish ‘n’ chips (awards) lady.
This was the opening night of the first Carcass club and the treat was Dexter beef.
The atmosphere and lighting were perfect, the music not too loud to enable conversation. It felt comforting and had the feeling of dining with friends, despite it being a full restaurant.
It’s the quirky touches at Flat Iron that make it memorable; the signature cleaver, the pot of beef-fat salted popcorn, and refreshing flavoured water on arrival. Quirky salt and pepper pots sat on the table, but I doubted we would need it.
The menu was simple. A generous portion of Dexter beef, chips cooked in beef dripping, truffled peppercorn and cep cream sauce and a glass of smooth Malbec wine. If you are northern, it is a given that the sauce would be poured over the chips.
Tonight was going to be Flat Iron on steroids and it still won’t break the bank at just £20 a head. Sides were extra but, to order is pure indulgence, as the plate of beef and chips was piled Yorkshire high. A normal night would set you back a whopping £14. It’s an affordable treat.
With our eyes bigger than our bellies we ordered truffled macaroni cheese (£5.70) and creamed spinach (£4.00).
The Dexter beef was the star of the show. Succulent, tender and perfectly cooked medium-rare. There was plenty of it and as predicted, the seasoning perfect. No need to reach for those salt and pepper pots.
Provenance is key; Cockerill only has Dexter cows on her farm and she insists on fully finishing the animals on grass, which is ‘unusual,’ the menu states.
Speaking of the menu, if you ever wanted a lesson in beef cuts, this is an easy way to learn. From learning about hindquarter to forequarter cuts, these may come in handy for a pub quiz!
There were no other options for dessert other than the Tahitian ice cream. Diners are handed mini cleavers to swap for the ice cream. But if you can’t manage it on the night, the cleavers can be taken to any Flat Iron restaurant and traded for the delicious creamy ice-cream at any point.
Part of the charm of Flat Iron is the staff. Our waitress, Mia, was attentive and relaxed. All of the front of house were providing impeccable service.
So far, on every one of my and my dining partner, musician Kirsty Newton’s, visits to Flat Iron restaurants, they have been consistent. That’s what makes this such a comforting place to visit.
The next Carcass Club will take place in the New Year. Worth the visit, even if it’s to get away from the weather!
Flat Iron Leeds
9A Lands Lane
LS1 6AW
